Tuesday, March 25, 2008

Tomashaw

This week brings the guide community some sad news. One of our best has died.
Stan Tomashow had gone to City College, up atop the hill north of Columbia U, atop Harlem Valley, in the 1960s, a time of political involvement among the colleges and universities of the USA. Though he had never mentioned any personal political involvement to me, he had very strong opinions on politics and on the USA's place in the world (i.e. that we shouldn't flatter ourselves into thinking we belong at the top of it). He showed character in an era of P.S. blandness.

Stan went to work in the pressure cooker of Wall Street's financial market sales, having taken a degree in accounting, and then passing tests for what I think was "series 37" or some "series," which allowed him to work on certain specific money markets. He worked at that business until he couldn't take the pressure anymore, snapped at someone, and was asked to leave the firm. I sympathized with him, as things went similarly for me about 15 years later.

Stan O'Connor and Stan Tomashow, roughly fifteen years apart, followed similar habits into similar careers: we were each struck by the beauty of the city, and by its historical significance. We walked the city streets, fell in love with New York, and became guides to the greatest city in the world.
Stan had worked on Wall & Broad. Imagine sitting down at lunch each day on the steps of a federal building from 1842, with the reaching black hand of George Washington's statue right overhead! That alone would be inspiring enough. And the Sub-Treasury Building, those steps, would be where ship captains and merchants would bring their taxes all through the 19th century. Literally, in a handbag, up the hill from the docks, then up these very steps. This at a time when the United States kept a military force capable of defending our shores, but not capable of dominating worldwide events or keeping bases in a score of other nations. That is to say, the citizens of the USA were not then required to give up 30 percent of their earnings in order to keep a vast worldwide military going. Only shipping and merchants were taxed. Those who did business at the port of New York City would walk up these Treasury steps to hand their taxes over. In cash: a heavy bag lugged up a long marble staircase.

A lover of history, Stan would keep in mind that, a generation earlier in April of 1789, George Washington was inaugurated President, mere feet away from where he sat.

The Sub-Treasury Building also was on an extremely important parcel of land. Its predecessor on that plot of land had been New York City Hall. On its steps, the evening of July nine, seventeen-seventy-six, one of the Sons of Liberty stood on the top step and read loudly down to a torchlit mob, a document that had been smuggled into the restless city that day, over from Philly. The new document was called A Declaration of Independence. "When, in the course of human events, it becomes necessary..." Then the crowd strode a block west to Bowling Green, got out hacksaws and ropes, sawed off the hated leaden British-crown fence posts, and the gold-painted leaden statue of George III. These were melted down into much needed musket balls and cannonballs for the coming war.

Seven weeks later, the British took Manhattan, and City Hall was held as their HQ until the end of the War. Post war, some rooms in City Hall were set aside as government offices of something totally new: The United States of America. City Hall bustled; so overcrowded with City and National offices that Henry Knox and Alexander Hamilton had to run the departments of War and Treasury three blocks down the hill, at Fraunces Tavern.

And Tomashow would walk those streets and envision it all:
The states-rights-loving Thomas Jefferson and the pragmatic federalist Hamilton, meeting by chance on Broadway and there working out a deal to create a new capital while paying off NYS' war debts.
The chef at Delmonico's inventing Lobster Newburgh.
Charles Dickens speaking at a dinner in his honor, on a trip to America.
Washington praying at Saint Paul's Chapel.
Mary & Abe Lincoln staying across the street at Astor House because it had indoor plumbing.
The Brooklyn Bridge opening in 1883.
And South Street Seaport opening in 1984.
Stan Tomashow liked meeting people, giving details of oft-hidden history, and exchanging points of view. Naturally he became a New York City sightseeing guide because it's the finest job for those of us who love such a life.

Double-decker guides used to have a professional-courtesy practice of letting other guides hitch rides on the buses. (Management later clamped down on such acts of kindness.) One time I hopped on Stan's bus on Third Avenue just before the 49th Street crossing. Some guy was leaning into the wide-open door of his sports car, oblivious to traffic around him. The bus tore along at a good clip, and Stan had the people looking at the Waldorf. "Franklin Roosevelt was crippled and couldn't walk, so the New York Central made him a railroad spur that took his touring car right into the hotel's basement --and I'll tell you how, as soon as we take this Corvette's door off!"

I found him to be lovable, though uncompromising and irascible, passing Saint Patrick's Cathedral and talking about the "cult known as Christianity", which he considered to be a cult that got out of hand, and would say so, right to the tourists' faces. Stan could start an argument over someone's stated opinion and have the brainpower to see that argument through and end it with the other person, if not in agreement, chastened to the point of no longer giving their side. I was so chastened on occasion.

Tomashow was uncompromising about working for the needs of others. He gave of himself if people needed his help. He was nonreligious and Jewish. But he hung out at, and volunteered for, a Methodist church because he appreciated the work that the minister there was doing. I liked and respected him in that he saw no problem in crossing religious lines in order to help others.
Stan trained me when I became a guide. He was great on the fly, and never shrank from doing overtime work. He loved overtime. In the record-tourism year of 1999, he said he made $60,000 on the double-deckers, two-thirds of it on overtime. ...Not counting tips.

About that time, Stan got "noticed" by the management of the company because, as he said, he felt more comfortable in women's clothing than in men's. He had started his transformation by wearing low-heel pumps. Later came the painted nails and lipstick. His rough voice and heavy Brooklyn accent let no one mistake him for an effeminate person. Then, if I recall correctly, some wag upstairs sent out a memo on a customer's complaint that they had noticed bra lines under his mandatory white 50-50 polo shirt. So they apparently went out to get him, and he was called in for one hearing after another, on any tiny discrepancy on his tours, resulting in his firing. The company lost a top guide because, it would seem, they didn't like the way he dressed! This at a time when its buses were wrapped in ads for Hooters. Stan despised such hypocrisy.

Stan and I got to know each other while sitting in the bullpen at the double-decker company, waiting to be called for our tours. He was whip smart! Andy Sydor had brought the New York City edition of Trivial Pursuits, which we would hop into and out of, playing for hours and hours, like professional gamblers who get in on a standing poker game in Atlantic City for an hour or so, then leave. Stan not only got most of the questions right; he once argued his way through a his wrong answer of a question on one of the cards. The next day, Stan brought in a reference book which corroborated his point, just to prove he'd been right. Thereafter, that card was taken out of play.

Both Stan and I were members of the Guide Association. We teamed up for some two-bus student tours in '04 and '05. While walking Central Park with the kids, we were roughly equal in pointing out different aspects of the park. But when we got to Wall Street, Stan outshone me by far. He knew stuff not only in New York's and America's early history. Furthermore, he told the kids about the crash of 1987 and how the value of stocks, though diminished for the time being, went up afterward and soared past their old records just a few years later. This was a valuable lesson for teenagers, who have so little personal timeline that they can't see what will happen in five or six years; that not all is lost because the markets are losing money right now. That things will get better. That there's hope for the future, a future we should all look forward to.

I am bummed today. I had a little elective surgery yesterday, so I am sitting here recuperating, writing this, rather than sitting Shiva for my friend Stan Tomashow.

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Friday, March 14, 2008

Readers,
Touring with kids is always a challenge. You need a guide with a grasp of how to connect with students, to link them to history and its place in their current lives. That said, here's an example of the sort of story I tell students when on the tour bus heading for the Statue of Liberty:

John Adams, puritan, spent a few uncomfortable years in cosmopolitan New York City.
You have to hear his wife's wonderful quote about our town. But you have to hear the backstory first.

The United States government was founded in New York City when the British moved out of town at the end of 1783. Congress got elected in 1785 and met at City Hall on Wall Street, uncomfortably close to rich guys who used their connections to enrich themselves at the expense of other states, like Virginia and the Carolinas.

Alexander Hamilton was walking down Broadway one day when he chanced to meet VA Senator Thomas Jefferson. Jefferson asked Hamilton to dinner the following night at his house, where he unloaded on Hamilton all his fears of rich New Yorkers corrupting the government. Jefferson wanted the influence stopped! Hamilton saw the opportunity for a compromise.

Hamilton the New Yorker and Jefferson the Virginian worked out this deal: The US Treasury (Hamilton was its Secretary) would back bond sales by New York State to pay off its debts from the War.

(Now I ask the students, "What war?")

Congress was to pay a French landscape architect to design a Federal City, somewhere along the Potomac (closer to Jefferson's Virginia) and move the government there.

(Does anyone know the name of that city?)

Congress and the government departments got ready and moved there in 1790.

Abigail Adams packed up her house and her four kids, and had wagons carry it all out of town. She had lived as a New Yorker for five years and came to love our comparatively warm winters, and the nightlife that never ends.

About to leave forever, Abigail Adams wrote to a friend, "When all is done, it won't be Broadway."

TourguideStan
www.oconnorgreentoursnyc.com
917 716 4521

Tuesday, March 11, 2008

My governor, Eliot Spitzer, has been found to be a user of hookers while in DC. He publicly has railed against the sex industry. So, yesterday, he appeared with his wife by his side, at the podium.

They always bring their wives when there's a sex scandal. The wife stands there looking attentive, loving and dutiful while the public official tries to make the best of things. Hillary in '98 started showing up to events when Bill was hit with the Lewinsky thing. She's been in the spotlight ever since, at least in New York State, where she's a senator.

Back in the mid-80s, Ed Koch was trying to convey that he was straight, when running for mayor of NYC. So he went to public event after public event holding hands with Betsy Gotbaum (who became our Culture official when Koch got elected). But once elected, she stopped showing up with him and he went back to being a single buck. That was sort of a reverse sex scandal. As opposed to outing himself, he was inning himself!

Everyone hates a hypocrite. When the head of the Council of Evangelical Christian Churches, or whatever that organization is, was suddenly found to have a Gay companion, he insisted the guy was a masseur and it was just massages. The thing was, Evangelicals are very biased against homosexuality, and very outspoken at that. Likewise the Idaho Republican senator who has "a wide stance" when in the stall. In the airport. Adamantly non-homosexual. But did he say he wasn't bi?

Spitzer went after prostitutes and their johns, so his hypocrisy is seen to be very great. People who decry sexual practices are double-darned when it's found that they practice those practices.

Should you avoid coming to New York City because of this? No. It's just a facet of life around here, that someone's secret sexual life is teased out. It happens so often that we New Yorkers just shake our heads, then go about our daily lives.

Just don't start asking me "Where are the hookers?" All I know is that they are in hotel rooms down in DC. And that our governor spent EIGHTY GRAND on them. And that his new sobriquet -- not in the papers but around water coolers -- is "Spitzer swallows."

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Friday, March 7, 2008

Times Square bombing 4/6/08

Okay,
Someone tossed a homemade bomb at the military recruitment station that has been in Military Island in Times Square since 1916 (temporarily!). It damaged the front door. Does this mean you shouldn't come to New York or that you shouldn't enjoy Times Square?
No, it doesn't. Come on in. And take a 45-minute pedicab tour of midtown while you're at it.
http://www.oconnorgreentoursnyc.com/tours/timessquare.htm
http://www.oconnorgreentoursnyc.com/tours/mediarow.htm
Since it's still the off season, I'll throw in the tour of Media Row, Rockefeller Center and St. Patrick's for free if you order the Times Square tour for $50.

TourguideStan

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Wednesday, March 5, 2008

First post -- Welcome to New York City.

...and welcome to my little island on the web, as I sit in my chair on the greatest little island in the world, just a mile offshore of the USA, right about where we like to keep it. My name is Stan. It has been my honor to represent New York City to visitors from around the world, for the past 15 years. if you have a question I'll either answer it outright, or refer you to people who can do a better job than I can.

This blog is meant to be a repository not only of my own feelings and thoughts, but also of information about New York City, for those of you who wish to come here. Will I have free advice? You bet. Check out my volunteer work under the name "TourguideStan" on TripAdvisor.com, for my tips on things to see when here. TripAdvisor has several other great posters who know how to get travel deals. I don't, but I do know how to charter a bus and guide for a group of 40. And how to get from Chinatown to The Cloisters without going on the highway.

Part of the reason for starting the blog is that I want to increase my web presence, in order to gain more bus tourguiding gigs. I'm good; you should try me!

Most of my current income is derived from my pedicab, a form of rickshaw. I own a 21-speed Main Street, made in Colorado. It's like a mountain bike with seats, seatbelts, hydraulic brakes, LED lights. Everything but a motor. I drive people for tours of Greenwich Village, Midtown or Central Park. The seats are heated in winter, and there's a cozy carriage blanket. People love my pedicab tours.

But I'm a licensed guide, a member of the Guides Association of New York City (www.ganyc.com). That means I'm good enough to have spent $100 on membership dues. I'd rather do what we in tourism call "step-on," meaning I step onto the bus, sit behind the driver, give turn instructions and use a microphone to call out the sights. It sure beats pedalling two people up and down hills. Though there's a great deal to be said for the intimacy of touring with just one couple, especially in the Village and Central Park, where motor vehicles just aren't capable of doing the tours. The work isn't really hard, but it's time to ease my way into more tours wherein I get to sit back and take it easy.

More later. Please say hello.

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